Rural Agents Pty Ltd

[Woodie]

Rural Agents Pty Ltd
Seed, Produce Fertilizer, Hardware and General Agents.
Bruxner Highway, Tabulam. NSW Australia. (100 metres up the road, actually. ) is being immortalised in HO for Garahbara MKII.

For me it's my first scratch attempt at anything, so it something pretty simple.

the actual dimensions are 30.8 metres X 9.2 metres. Thats 105mm X 354mm in HO. (or 4" X 14").

 

[Woodie]

..... and the front.

 

[Woodie]

...... and the progress so far.

I'm using Evergreen "Clapboard" .050" Spacing (1.3mm) .040" thick (1.0mm). for the "timber" front end, and H-Column 1/8" (3.2mm) for the frame. Other Evergreen bits for the window frames, and cornices and guttering etc.

A local manafacturers model corrugated iron for the rest.

It's quite easy working in metric actually. 9.2 metres wide, thats 9,200 millimetres divide by 87 (for HO) and you get 105mm wide. I can work the rest out (windows etc) from the plethora of pics I took today. Just "resize" it using the grid in "Photodraw to take one edge of the building at zero, the other at 1000. then just use percentages of 105mm to determine window placement etc. Quite easy actually.

 

[sumpter250]

 

[jon-monon]

That will be neat with the painted on signs and all! Can't wait to see how she comes out!

 

[Tyson Rayles]

You are off to a nice start Woodie. BTW what does Pty. stand for ???

 

[Woodie]

That'll do for tonight.

Windows & cornice. ( Evergreen HO Scale 4 X 4 (1.09mm X 1.09mm).

And a coat of paint. Humbrol Ivory Gloss (brushed). Didn't want the gloss, but I can "dullcoate" it.

Oh, Tyson. "Pty" stands for "Proprietary"..... as in "Proprietary Limited".

 

[TrainClown]

Way to go Woodie

You might try putting the sign on the building by making a stensil. You could make the stensil by printing a photo of the front of the building to scale and then cutting out the letters and holding the stensil in place with Krylon spray or, as I have done in the past, a glue stick. Then you can air brush the letters to give them that weathered look. Use short bursts of air from at least six inches away, straight on to the sign, and you shouldn't get any bloom creeping under the edges. You do have an air brush don't you?

Once you get the hang of scratch building you will love it, because then you can make anything you want.

Good start!

 

[Catt]

Words of warning Sir Woodie.Scratchbuilding is a sickness for which there is no cure.

For your first ever attempt I would have to give you an A+.

 

[interurban]

Good on ya matey,
Better get a roof on it before that storm comes in

 

[RailRon]

Woodie, you really made a flying start into scratchbuilding. Interesting structure, and your model already now shows your excellent craftmanship. I'm looking forward for the next pictures.

But beware! There is an aggressive X-acto knife lurking around. In the first model pic it is still behind the building, but in the second it's already heading straight for your eye!
Just take care when shooting the next picture!!!

Ron

 

[K.V.Div]

Way to go Woodie! welcome to the wonderful world of scratchbuilding.
For a first attempt I would say that you are a natural and will go far .
Keep up the Good work!!! .
Cheers!

Terry

 

[Woodie]

... and now for today's progress.

added both side walls (the corrugated iron bits), and framework up to the sliding doors. (now they/re gunna be a challenge)...

The corrugated iron (actualy aluminium, i think) shines like a mirror. Pretty close to aluminum foil. Again, some dullcoate toned it down, but it's still very reflective.

The slight bulge in the iron facia at the front (on the left), is really noticeable in the pic, but not on the model itself. hmmmm... better rectify that bit.

 

[Woodie]

...... and without the flash.

 

[davidstrains]

Originally posted by Catt!
Words of warning Sir Woodie.Scratchbuilding is a sickness for which there is no cure.

For your first ever attempt I would have to give you an A+.

I agree with Catt. Once you get started you will never get that knife out of your hand and your town will begin to become crowded with newly assembled "handbuilt, scratchbuilt" structures.

But it is soooo much fun - satisfying too

Nice work, Woodie.

 

[sumpter250]

Woodie,
Only problem with doin' so well on that building........when you put it in a scene, you'll have to include those puddles !
Lookin' gooooood !!
Pete

 

[Woodie]

Day three progress. (I'd have put it up last night, but a 3 hour blackout prevented that!!)

Have now built down as far as the raised portion at the end. Oh... fixed the "bulge" at the fron too. The sliding doors? Just held there with folded of sticky tape at the mo. Gotta work out some way of have them "relocatable" so I can have them shut, open halfway, of fully or whatever.

It'll have to go into a hiatus now. I've run out of tin for the walls. (until my LHS gets some more in).

ALso gave most of the frame a coat of Humbrol "metalic aluminium" as well.

 

[interurban]

Hi Woodie, that`s coming along great, Love the aluminium effect!
I finished a booking agency with the fellows last night and we decided to put a tin roof on it.

We had a black out last night to Now I know who to blame.

 

[RailRon]

Hi Woodie, here is an idea how to mount a relocatable shed door.

I must admit that I never tried it in H0, but I tried to make sliding doors for a tool box at the wall of a model garage diorama in 1:24 scale. As it turned out, they didn't want to slide back and forth easily, but at least they could be relocated in every wanted position. I guess that's what you want to do with your shed doors.

Anyway, here is how I did it. I tried to show the principle in a small cross section sketch:

(1) is the shed wall, (1a) the opening of the shed door.
Now glue a piece of inverted U-channel material (2) above the opening and to the side of it to the wall. You could use styrene or wood profile. (on my model I used a small piece of aluminum U-profile that served before as a decoration strip on a portable radio )
The U was filled with a strip of foam rubber (3) after making a slit (black) over its whole length.
Now you can push in your shed door (4) from below in any position you want. The gripping power of the foam rubber is strong enough to hold that door, on the other hand it is very easily removed.

Hope this helps a bit!

Ron

 

[Woodie]

thanks for that Ron. That would probably work really well too hold a door in place.

My dilema is keeping it true to the protptype. The doors are "hung" from an "exposed" beam to roll along.

I want to keep it as true to the prototype as possible of course.