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Going back to only15's question. Check out this web site. Sn2 Home Page You'll see that most who model in Sn2 use HOn3 track and mechanism's because of the larger tie spacing and wheels. Dan

That is also incorrect!:cry: The below link is for a list of original owners of the U18B. U18B Roster Jorge, Intermountain Railway is supposed to be coming out with a U18B in HO scale sometime this summer. So no more kitbashing, yeah!:thumb: InterMountain HO Scale Upcoming Releases Dan

My desktop changes at least once a week. But here is the image currently up. It is a Howard Fogg print from a old calendar that I have. p.s. the reason for just the image, is that I could not get the print screen to work on my Dell laptop.

Here are a couple of the San Joaquin Valley RR

Here's one that doesn't show up on the list. the "St. Croix Valley RR" heres a shot of the Arizona & California for Josh

Charlie, In answer to your original question, Dispatch Shops Inc. #15 is a EMD SW8. There are a couple of photo's of her in the Withers Publishing book "EMD's SW8" including a color one on the back cover. Dan

From what I've been able to determine from photo's of GN "F" units. The ones with silver trucks and fuel tanks were used for passenger service whereas the ones with black trucks and fuel tanks were used for freight. Dan

Dave, The index of magazines is at The Model Train Magazine Index Dan

Kevin, P2K is short for Proto 2000 which is a line of models put out by LifeLike Products, This line is now owned by Walthers, walters.com IIRC means "If I Recall(or Remember) Correctly" There are no plastic SD18's available that I know of, But it not that difficult to convert a SD9 to...

Missabe's SD-M's are rebuilt SD9's. So I would start with a P2K SD9 (in HO scale) or Atlas SD9 (in N scale). The basic change would be to lower the short hood and rebuilt the cab front. IIRC there has been an article on building this model, I'll see if I can find it and let you know. Dan

For my HO railroad I used the name and route of a real railroad, the "Minnesota & International Railroad". I did do a couple of changes through, first, I kept it alive it DID NOT disappear into the Northern Pacific in 1941, second it is still running, circa 1990, and third I did a...

Steve, Details West makes this rotary beacon. Item # 235-106 http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/235-106 Dan

This weekend I worked on the handrails and steps. For the handrails I used .015" brass wire with Precision Scale stanchions and for the steps I used A-Line #29256 diesel steps. The stanchions and handrails are going to be removed and reinstalled after the unit is painted. Easier...

I also rebuilt the radiator section. To do this I used Robert Zenk's F40PH article in the July 1983 Mainline Modeller as a guide. Here is a view of the left side rad. and the right side

Next I attacked the front pilot. First I removed everything from the steps forward. I then made a paper template of the rear pilot and transfered that to .020" styrene. I then installed the pilot and cut out the slot for the coupler. I then finished installing the...

I have started to rebuilt the loco. Starting with the inertial air filter area. To rebuild the grills I used a radiator grill from Cannon & Co. #1401. I cut and sanded it to length and then split it lengthwise. I then installed these in the openings and installed the inertail filter hatch.

Tom, I used Chameleon paint stripper. Works great on Athearns!!!

Now that the chassis is complete it is time to start working on the body. The first thing I did was to scrape the mold lines and strip the old paint off. I then started to remove the molded-in detail that will be replaced, fans (both radiator and dynamic), the exhaust hatch, the inertial...

Now to complete work on the chassis. Here I finished the truck sideframes and attached them to the trucks. But before I could do that the trucks and wheels needed to be painted. I then added the brake cylinders and brake lines to the sideframes. On the left front there is a speed...

I'm currently upgrading an older Athearn BB F45. Of course this means installing a DCC decoder. The first thing that I did was to remove the tangs from the bottom of the motor. I then soldered wire to the motor clips and then covered the botoom with electrians tape. I then turned my...