U.S.S. RELIANT NCC-1864
- Thread starter Rhaven Blaack
- Start date
Here are a couple of components that I forgot to attach to the underside of the "engineering" section.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Moving on to the support pylons.
These are the mounts for the support pylons.
The mounts are assembled.
The mounts are attacheched in place.
Here are the parts for the support pylons and large phaser cannons.
The support pylons are assembled.
The support pylons are attached.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
These are the mounts for the support pylons.
The mounts are assembled.
The mounts are attacheched in place.
Here are the parts for the support pylons and large phaser cannons.
The support pylons are assembled.
The support pylons are attached.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Very envious of the clean build!! You didn't even snip the tabs, excellent building skills!!!
Thank you sir.
Too right you are. I did not snip the glue tabs.
I have a very simple "cardinal rule" when it comes to building models. That rule states that when I am building a model for the very first time, I build it "AS-IS". That means that I do not alter, augment, or enhance the model in any way shape or form (to include but not limited to adding greebling, snipping the tabs, or anything else). This helps me to ensure that I understand the template and how all of the parts go together, as well as to see how I can add enhancements, augmentation, and greebling, for the next time that I will build the model. Following this "cardinal rule" has helped me improve my building abilities and develop new skills and techniques to improve the models that I build.
Moving on to the rollbars and weapons systems.
Assembling the large phaser cannons.
The large phaser cannons are assembled.
Here are the parts for the rollbars and weapons pod.
The rollbars are assembled.
Assembling the weapons pod.
I attached the rollbars to both the large phaser cannons and weapons pod.
I attached the large phaser cannons to the vertical support pylons.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Assembling the large phaser cannons.
The large phaser cannons are assembled.
Here are the parts for the rollbars and weapons pod.
The rollbars are assembled.
Assembling the weapons pod.
I attached the rollbars to both the large phaser cannons and weapons pod.
I attached the large phaser cannons to the vertical support pylons.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Thank you sir. There is a GREAT deal of greebling potential in this model. I have been refraining myself from greebling it out (because this is the first time that I have built it).
- Apr 5, 2013
- 14,329
- 10,964
I have yet to see once of these ships with perfect (relatively speaking) saucer section seams. I think it's the nature of the model. I have a next generation Enterprise, it's huge, made of plastic, and the saucer section seams were off on that too. Maybe different heat from different mold times, I don't know. I think if the inside section of the edge is doubled up, and the inner section is one thickness smaller than the side, it may lead to the journey of seams.
I recently 3D printed 2 F-22 models from different people. Both got the jet intakes wrong, and gluing sections meant holding the model in my hands, tweaking it while it dried to finally get a ho-hum fit. Some sanding, filler, those models took about 5 hrs. each to print. Talk about let down. The models I get off the web from "Thingverse" and "Makerworld" aren't very good so far. They're are O.K., but will take much work to paint and detail, as they are all one color..
Making things require due diligence, and sometimes the nature of the beast just comes up to bite you in the A$$. It's good that we enjoy doing this, and that in the end, the sum of the parts make for a great model. This model, if I didn't know better, I would think was greebled, I can imagine, if you do it again and greeble it, how much more intense it would be. This is my favorite Star Trek star ship. Great job.
I recently 3D printed 2 F-22 models from different people. Both got the jet intakes wrong, and gluing sections meant holding the model in my hands, tweaking it while it dried to finally get a ho-hum fit. Some sanding, filler, those models took about 5 hrs. each to print. Talk about let down. The models I get off the web from "Thingverse" and "Makerworld" aren't very good so far. They're are O.K., but will take much work to paint and detail, as they are all one color..
Making things require due diligence, and sometimes the nature of the beast just comes up to bite you in the A$$. It's good that we enjoy doing this, and that in the end, the sum of the parts make for a great model. This model, if I didn't know better, I would think was greebled, I can imagine, if you do it again and greeble it, how much more intense it would be. This is my favorite Star Trek star ship. Great job.
You do make very valid points. I do think that the saucer section could be redesigned (and better internal formers could be added, as well as a few other upgrades). However, I have to say that all-in-all, it is a good template and an enjoyable build.I have yet to see once of these ships with perfect (relatively speaking) saucer section seams. I think it's the nature of the model. I have a next generation Enterprise, it's huge, made of plastic, and the saucer section seams were off on that too. Maybe different heat from different mold times, I don't know. I think if the inside section of the edge is doubled up, and the inner section is one thickness smaller than the side, it may lead to the journey of seams.
I recently 3D printed 2 F-22 models from different people. Both got the jet intakes wrong, and gluing sections meant holding the model in my hands, tweaking it while it dried to finally get a ho-hum fit. Some sanding, filler, those models took about 5 hrs. each to print. Talk about let down. The models I get off the web from "Thingverse" and "Makerworld" aren't very good so far. They're are O.K., but will take much work to paint and detail, as they are all one color..
Making things require due diligence, and sometimes the nature of the beast just comes up to bite you in the A$$. It's good that we enjoy doing this, and that in the end, the sum of the parts make for a great model. This model, if I didn't know better, I would think was greebled, I can imagine, if you do it again and greeble it, how much more intense it would be. This is my favorite Star Trek star ship. Great job.
Time for the display stand.
Here are the part(s) for the stand.
*NOTE* You will need either three Q-tip stems, three equal lengths of bamboo skewer or some other material for the "upright" supports (use the guide on the page for reference.).
I cut sections of corrugated cardboard. I ran the corrugation vertically.
I placed the corrugated cardboard inside the skin of the base.
Here are the base and the uprights. I chose to use bamboo skewers (painted black).
I poked the skewers through the base and into the corrugated cardboard.
I sealed the bottom of the base with a sheet of cardstock.
The display stand is finished.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Here are the part(s) for the stand.
*NOTE* You will need either three Q-tip stems, three equal lengths of bamboo skewer or some other material for the "upright" supports (use the guide on the page for reference.).
I cut sections of corrugated cardboard. I ran the corrugation vertically.
I placed the corrugated cardboard inside the skin of the base.
Here are the base and the uprights. I chose to use bamboo skewers (painted black).
I poked the skewers through the base and into the corrugated cardboard.
I sealed the bottom of the base with a sheet of cardstock.
The display stand is finished.
Please stay tune to your local "GLOBAL NETWORK BROADCASTING SYSTEM" for the latest updates on this project!
Absolutely a pleasure to see you build on this! (And all the others too!)
- Apr 5, 2013
- 14,329
- 10,964
Superb job. Having seen YOU build it now shows it's weak points, and gives me ideas where the model could be improved. This will make a great display piece, and is one bad ass looking ship!! 