Bandai 1/144th Millennium Falcon from SW, TFA

[micahrogers]

The detail brushes I use on minis and figures...
Left to right
The Army Painter Psycho, Atlas 20/0, and Atlas 10/0...

The 10/0 is used for broad strokes on these1/144th people... just an idea for size.

 

[Strick67]

I'm not a plastic kit maker but these Bandai kits are tempting, esp. the 1/72nd version. Right now I couldn't justify the price or the display space.
All the best with this build, great work so far.

 

[micahrogers]

I'm not a plastic kit maker but these Bandai kits are tempting, esp. the 1/72nd version. Right now I couldn't justify the price or the display space.
All the best with this build, great work so far.

I'm the same with the 1/72nd... but I did ask my son, and daughter-in-law to be on the look out for it in Japan.

 

[micahrogers]

the Cockpit has been populated! I'm going to put Finn in the lower gun tub.

I'm going to cut the little half door out of the back wall, and juts put a piece of grey paper behind it. I'll look for a pic that I can print the right size to make it look like the hall is back there.

 

[micahrogers]

Holy Felgercarb... I love this new fangled thing called the internet. is 'Da Bomb'

A quick image search pulled up this pic.

which when I printed it out, it looks like the back wall is just the right size to make my false hall...

 

[micahrogers]

Busy Saturday AM...
I got the half door cut out... and painted the padding, I still have to weather it.

And got the printed false hall cut out.

Now to let the paint dry and weather the padding, then I can add the false hall, and do a light check.

 

[mijob]

That cockpit will look great with your adons.

 

[micahrogers]

That cockpit will look great with your adons.

Thanks, I think it's gonna be neat.

And my false hall looks good from the front

Now to see what it looks like lit...

 

[micahrogers]

12 volt RGB LEDs used, the smallest I can cut the strip is 3 LEDs, and I folded them up to fit, more or less, in the small area behind the false hall. I still have to work on fitment and light sealing.

Much brighter. This pic was taken with the flash to show the crew.

now on with the build...

 

[micahrogers]

A peak inside, from behind and underneath.

I forgot to take a pic of the LED cluster I made, so I'll take pics of the steps on the next one, which will light the interior, boarding ramp, and gun tubs.

P.S
... It is a sad day in the RC hobby for me, my 20+ year old, and still perfectly functional JR Propo, R-1, FM 27, and 72 Mhz multi band, 3 channel computer radio gave op it's 8 AA battery tray to make my 12 Volt power bank. Now I'll step into the bathroom and have a quick cry for they passing of an era in my life.
Just to clarify for those who might not know, this was a $1,000 USD radio in 1998... and it controlled many of my RC cars, and one little park flier.

 

[micahrogers]

My JR R-1, in it's Dockiseal case...


And it' removed and modified battery pack.

 

[micahrogers]

Final update for today...
Cockpit arm finished except for the glass.


Bad light leak to the outside, I'll be priming this model with black... Grrrr.


But, DAYUM... that cockpit is pretty.


I'll be using the glass in front nose, since the dirt on the glass is so visible in SW-TFA


As it sits now, I'm seeing if white glue can be used as a window mask...

 

[micahrogers]

Just a quick Sunday AM update, it looks like the white glue will work as a masking agent.

 

[micahrogers]

Started by masking the canopy...


Then working on the gun tubs, base coated


and detailed


And a close up of Finn in the gun chair.

Now back to the regular assembly process.

 

[micahrogers]

Windows masked for the gun tubs.

 

[micahrogers]

The "maintenance" wells on the mandibles are 3 parts per side, and I painted and detailed each set seperatly...

Then assembled the mandible around them.


and built up the side edge panels...



and the inside section...

Now repeat for the other mandible...

 

[micahrogers]

The same as the other mandible, but pics every step of the assembly...


The rest of the mandible assembly mirrors the other, so I'll only take pics of the pair together.

 

[micahrogers]

Both mandibles now ready for mating to the rest of the ship...

In this scale, the detail piping is so small, that even with Bandai injection molding, you will need a pair of precision sprue cutters.
My generic, HobbyTown USA nippers, next to my Ungar precision side cutters.

now, on with the "hamburger"...

 

[micahrogers]

The "Hamburger" begins with the lower half, and the lower gun tub goes in first...


First off, This kit is engineered such that the stand connects to the gun tub... And as such, the gun tubs ARE NOT moveable...
As can be seen in this pic, the outer plate of the gun tub is keyed in place by tabs and slots


As such, I decided to glue the tub inplace... So Finn is in place in the hull.

Now the pre pain, and detail process for the recessed bays on the bottom, I'll get the base coat on these mechanical pieces tonight.


painting begins again...

 

[micahrogers]

Just one update for today, But Man O Man, What an Update....
I basecoated the underside maintenance hole parts, and detailed them out


Then installed them.


Then added the "lettuce and tomatoes" errr, the side walls,


And the "meat" or end caps.

Then it's light blocking time...


And color coats on the aresa that got light blocked, that need to be the base color.

New soldering iron ordered from Home Depot, Wiped out my available credit on one card, but it should be here Thursday.

This paint gets 48 hrs to cure, as I have to wire lights before I close it up. I'll try to rig up the lights enough to give an idea of what the engine will look like.