Andor Tie Avenger

Still fighting with the interior to get it into the sphere. It needs some adjustments to fit properly. Main issue is the fitting around the front, rear, top and bottom hatches.

The front view is the show maker. Here I have todo some extra work to make the spgere gap disappear.
PXL_20251230_131255153.MACRO_FOCUS~2.jpgPXL_20251230_131311458.MACRO_FOCUS~2.jpg
And the side view with the pylons Here you can see a big gap that needs to be closed. Oke its not the best picture to see it, but it is there.
PXL_20251230_131519570.MACRO_FOCUS~2.jpg
The back and the side of the hull is looking good also some minor adjustments.
PXL_20251230_131424191.MACRO_FOCUS~2.jpgPXL_20251230_131503254~2.jpg
Overall Im still not ready to make the final template.
 
Michael, when I have to close a gap without a CG model I use paper strips or triangles to determine the approximate shape. Cut off a few triangles, rectangles, whatever, move them as close to the neighbouring face as possible and tape them to the part with the gap. Start with one. Take the next and put it next to the first one. Continue all the way round until the gap is well closed. Then detach the face with the strips attached, flatten it, trace the shape and see if it fits. Repeat the procedure above till the gap is closed. Then scan the part and refine the graphics.
 
Thank you RF, its more a construction error from my side. I forgot to update some parts after I had changed the dimensions of the rear hull.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Revell-Fan
Michael, when I have to close a gap without a CG model I use paper strips or triangles to determine the approximate shape. Cut off a few triangles, rectangles, whatever, move them as close to the neighbouring face as possible and tape them to the part with the gap. Start with one. Take the next and put it next to the first one. Continue all the way round until the gap is well closed. Then detach the face with the strips attached, flatten it, trace the shape and see if it fits. Repeat the procedure above till the gap is closed. Then scan the part and refine the graphics.
RF - Thanks for the GREAT advice! Will apply that when doing the next Thunderbird 4 model.
 
RF - Thanks for the GREAT advice! Will apply that when doing the next Thunderbird 4 model.
I hope my idea was clear enough. I wanted to add a few pictures but a new project interfered. I'm now down with a flu-like infection which has suspended everything... :/
 
  • Wow
Reactions: mijob
Michael, when I have to close a gap without a CG model I use paper strips or triangles to determine the approximate shape. Cut off a few triangles, rectangles, whatever, move them as close to the neighbouring face as possible and tape them to the part with the gap. Start with one. Take the next and put it next to the first one. Continue all the way round until the gap is well closed. Then detach the face with the strips attached, flatten it, trace the shape and see if it fits. Repeat the procedure above till the gap is closed. Then scan the part and refine the graphics.

I did the same thing when I was redoing my whole bathroom. Built in 1940, there wasn't a straight line or plumb, or squared in the whole room. It looked like it was, but I ended up in the yard cutting out a very odd shape of linoleum that fit perfectly when out on the new wooden floor (same fiting procedure). You do what you gotta do. ;)