WALL-E!

Revell-Fan

Co-Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Aug 1, 2009
12,864
14,662
Vreden
Just thought I should leave a footprint in this section..! ;) :D

One of my colleagues is leaving the company next week. I have made it a habit that colleagues who are leaving will get a paper model from me. Usually it is the Canon Lucky Cat (with or without sweets inside ;) ) but this time things are a bit different. My colleague is a big Yoda fan. She loves my paper Yoda and I was thinking about giving him to her, but since there are a few imperfections (the hands and the way the head is attached to the neck) I chose to keep it till I got the time to revisit it. Since the time was insufficient to make the life-size Yoda figure by Noturno Sukhoi I was thinking about which other character would be able to replace him for the time being. If you read the title of the thread you might already know the answer: WALL-E!

I used the plans provided by Elso Lopez which come as a *.pdo:

https://www.facebook.com/ElsoCraft/...4226616357223/630270277086187/?type=1&theater
(ATTENTION: The link requires to log-in to Facebook. I'm unable to verify if the model is still there.)

It has a nice size and great texture derived from Elso's life-size and poasble Wall-E build (which you can follow on his blog; he even provided detailed plans to copy his build :) ). Aside from the head the body of the simple Wall-E is static. I wanted to change that. So I made some enhancements and corrections to the plans which I will explain in this thread.

The model is 30 cm tall and has 116 parts. You can see that Elso deigned this model with the eyes of an experienced papercrafter because the parts are easily identifiable (albeit sometimes difficult to locate - more on this later) and assembly is pretty straight forward. There are no tiny fiddly bits which might scare beginners away, however, the sheer amount of parts might be able to do just that. But if you just tackle one section at a time I am sure you will succeed. :)

The parts are not too big and not too small which is a great plus for beginners and for people with big hands ;) . The texture is breath-takingly realistic, even though it appears a tad too red (you may adjust that before printing if you like). When I took a closer look at the movie I noticed that the CG Wall-E looks indeed more reddish in the scenes on Earth than in space where a more natural desaturated grey look prevails. Then I did the following:

1. Removed all red markings to save ink and to avoid printing them on visible areas of the parts.
2. Exported all pages as *.png at 300 dpi.
3. Edited several graphics:
page 12: mirrored text on eye lens
page 15 & 16: replaced blurred chain texture
page 17 & 18: fixed mismatched texture on drivetrain part
page 18: switched flap positions on one wheel
page 18 & 19: mirrored text on three wheels each
page 22 & 23: mirrored text on wheel
page 25 mirrored text on wheels

Then I felt it was ready to print. I didn't have the time to tinker with the colours and printed the kit as is. This too gave me the chance to fully test the abilities of my new printer, an HP Officejet 8715. I also used a new paper, 160 gsm as always, but from a different brand since the paper I used to use since about 2012 has become unavailable. It should have the same abilities though (archival and UV safe). What impressed me most was the fact that the prints came out very clean and fast (the sheets were literally shot out of the printer) and completely dry. I was unable to smudge the ink in any way (no matter how hard I rubbed on the paper the colours stayed were they were supposed to). This was a huge plus.

DSCF3777.jpg


The white stripes were a printing error which I suppose was created by a driver issue. Subsequent prints were flawless. I fixed the issue by simply glueing the separated pieces together with a paper strip on the back. I only had to re-print two pages and used the misprints to hide imperfections on the model which showed up during assembly.

The model has 16 wheels which are all assembled the same way. I don't have to stress how much I enjoyed building them...

DSCF3778.jpg


DSCF3779.jpg


DSCF3781.jpg


On the first wheels I did not glue all flaps to the rim but used two or three of them to hold the front and back plates into position.

DSCF3780.jpg


DSCF3782.jpg


Later I applied gue to the inside of the rim and carefully put the "lid" on it. This worked like a charm and was much less sloppy.

DSCF3784.jpg


I marked the parts to be able to tell where they would go on the final model. To do so I wrote down the location on the white parts which would later be covered by other parts. The fit of the parts was excellent.
 
Last edited:
I was a bit afraid of the tread design because it would be an ideal candidate for warping but everything went smoothly.

DSCF3823.jpg


If you look carefully you can see my handwritten notes on the parts I used as a guide for assembly.

DSCF3824.jpg


DSCF3826.jpg


The lonely flap indicates where the part goes. This alone shows how much care went into the design of the model.

DSCF3827.jpg


DSCF3828.jpg


The outer shell is attached:

DSCF3829.jpg


DSCF3830.jpg


DSCF3831.jpg


DSCF3832.jpg


DSCF3833.jpg


One tread complete. Again the fit was perfect. The inner roll was a bit too long and had to be shortened. No big deal. :)
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately I screwed up the second tread. When I attached the outer roll the tread began to warp and I had to make a cut into it to take away the pressure:

DSCF3835.jpg


Since Wall-E's nature was a bit wonky the whole thing did not bother me that much, however, the flaw was blatantly visible.

DSCF3836.jpg


DSCF3837.jpg


DSCF3838.jpg


I had to do something to hide the screw-up. I used one of the misprints, cut out a section and glued it over the seam.

DSCF3839.jpg


DSCF3840.jpg


PHEW! Like nothing ever happened! Tread saved. Now onto the assembly of the drivetrain! :)
 
Last edited:
The center axis of the big wheels consists of three parts. The white areas mark the glue areas. They are slightly smaller than the corresponding parts so that they are completely covered by them.

DSCF3842.jpg


The main task was to determine the angles and positions of the wheels. To master it I put all pieces loosely into the tread.

DSCF3843.jpg


The axles were attached first. This secured the wheel positions.

DSCF3844.jpg


DSCF3845.jpg


The wheels were taken out of the frame. Glue was applied and the wheels were glued into place.

DSCF3848.jpg


DSCF3852.jpg


A few detail pieces were attached - outside:

DSCF3846.jpg


and inside:

DSCF3847.jpg


DONE! :)
 
Last edited:
"Where are the Greebles? We want Greebles!! "
You guys be quiet, it is already looking Great!
 
Next I tackled the neck and the head. It is the only part of the kit to be posable.

The neck is static:

DSCF3853.jpg


DSCF3854.jpg


The tube as designed is supposed to be attached directly to the top of the neck. This is a very flimsy solution and can be improved. To do so I used a trick I learned from Julius Perdana. If you want to establish a strong connection between a tube and its base cut a hole into the base, fiddle one end of the tube through it and glue it to the back side of the base:

DSCF3864.jpg


DSCF3865.jpg


DSCF3867.jpg


DSCF3871.jpg


DSCF3873.jpg


To reinforce the connection I sealed everything off with a piece of scrap paper:

DSCF3876.jpg


I strengthened the corresponding hole in the head piece accordingly:

DSCF3855.jpg


The eye lenses are made of two parts which have to be glued to some clear sheet:

DSCF3858.jpg


DSCF3860.jpg


The ring is fairly thin which is why I left some flesh while gluing. I cut everything off after the glue had cured.
 
Last edited:
Completing the eyes was fairly easy:

DSCF3878.jpg


DSCF3884.jpg


DSCF3880.jpg


DSCF3885.jpg


The ring around the eyes is too short.

DSCF3883.jpg


I cut out a matching strip from the misprints and closed the gap.

Back to the piece which is put on the neck joint. A texture is missing on one side:

DSCF3887.jpg


DSCF3886.jpg


Again this was solved with the misprints.

DSCF3891.jpg


Further progress:

DSCF3889.jpg


DSCF3890.jpg


DSCF3892.jpg


DSCF3888.jpg
 
Last edited:
The bottom of the body is a pretty straight-forward trapezoid box:

DSCF3910.jpg


It is hollow and was reinforced with some corrugated card:

DSCF3911.jpg


The main body is made of two boxes. These are the parts for the bottom one:

DSCF3904.jpg


and the parts for the top one:

DSCF3906.jpg


The top half was put away for the time being because I had something special in mind with it. More on that later. ;)

The bottom half was reinforced with corrugated card, too:

DSCF3918.jpg


DSCF3914.jpg


Done! :)

A plate covering the top half with a hole for the neck to go through:

DSCF3907.jpg


The card was necessary to strengthen the part and to increase its height. A recessed box was glued directly onto the card below the cutout:

DSCF3909.jpg


I still need to take a picture of the assembled neck plate and bottom box.

And here comes the "trunk". It consists of one front piece and one back piece. The look of the back piece is pretty difficult to make out in the *.pdo, however, once you have cut it out and looked at the flap positions it becomes pretty obvious how it is assembled and attached to the front piece.

DSCF3919.jpg


DSCF3920.jpg


DSCF3921.jpg


DSCF3922.jpg


DSCF3923.jpg


It is best to glue the parts together flap by flap.

DSCF3924.jpg


DSCF3925.jpg


DSCF3926.jpg


DSCF3927.jpg


Next comes the first real enhancement of the model. Stay tuned, it's gonna be interesting! :)
 
Last edited:
You may be right about that. With the right amount of pressure applied it could indeed fold into a box, too..! :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cybergrinder