Wow amezing job you did on this project. LOVE IT A LOT.
I think I gone steal you idea!!!
I think I gone steal you idea!!!
Star Wars Imperial TIE Fighter by Shunichi Makino - enlarged to 1/32 scale
- Thread starter Revell-Fan
- Start date
Thank you! 
But you will have a HARD time getting the new wing mount to work... NOT!!!
BECAUSE:
Here comes attempt #2:
I taped the spare interior to a left-over piece of paper.
Then I traced the bottom shape and made some projections of strategic points of the sides using a triangle ruler.
Then I measured the lengths and angles of the projected lines. The idea was to use these data to re-create a matching CG model in SketchUp.
However, the copied lines would not create a closed virtual shape! How could that be?
I took a closer look at it and noticed that what appeared as one big four-sided face was in fact a series of two or even three rectangles. To exactly replicate the shape I would need to know the shape of these rectangles. Since I did not know that the endeavour led into a dead end and was scrapped.
But you will have a HARD time getting the new wing mount to work... NOT!!!
BECAUSE:
Here comes attempt #2:
I taped the spare interior to a left-over piece of paper.
Then I traced the bottom shape and made some projections of strategic points of the sides using a triangle ruler.
Then I measured the lengths and angles of the projected lines. The idea was to use these data to re-create a matching CG model in SketchUp.
However, the copied lines would not create a closed virtual shape! How could that be?
I took a closer look at it and noticed that what appeared as one big four-sided face was in fact a series of two or even three rectangles. To exactly replicate the shape I would need to know the shape of these rectangles. Since I did not know that the endeavour led into a dead end and was scrapped.
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Eagle-eyed viewers might have noticed a hole in the side of the mockup interior frame. That was
Attempt #3:
Intersecting the physical model directly.
I simply projected the diameter of the arm tube onto the cockpit frame and cut out the hole. Then I pushed a shorter tube with the same diameter through it and traced the shape of the cutout around the tube.
Then I cut the tube open and had - an intersected tube that should be able to provide me with the curvature I needed.
Excellent idea, clean execution, simple concept - but it went awfully wrong!
What happened?
In the mockup test it appeared to me that the middle line of the interior cage would match the middle line of Shunichi's cockpit ball. However, when I glued the interior into position I noticed THIS:
The center line of UHU's interior is not horizontal but it angles downwards!!!
A new strategy had to be developed.
Attempt #3:
Intersecting the physical model directly.
I simply projected the diameter of the arm tube onto the cockpit frame and cut out the hole. Then I pushed a shorter tube with the same diameter through it and traced the shape of the cutout around the tube.
Then I cut the tube open and had - an intersected tube that should be able to provide me with the curvature I needed.
Excellent idea, clean execution, simple concept - but it went awfully wrong!
What happened?
In the mockup test it appeared to me that the middle line of the interior cage would match the middle line of Shunichi's cockpit ball. However, when I glued the interior into position I noticed THIS:
The center line of UHU's interior is not horizontal but it angles downwards!!!
A new strategy had to be developed.
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I really like what you are doing with this model. I like that you added a figure in the cockpit as well.
If you wanted, you could have taken TIRICK's Stormtrooper figure and repainted it to look more like the Tie-Fighter Pilot. With that being said, I fully understand time constraints and deadlines.
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!
If you wanted, you could have taken TIRICK's Stormtrooper figure and repainted it to look more like the Tie-Fighter Pilot. With that being said, I fully understand time constraints and deadlines.
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!
Thank you!
And yes, I was thinking of Tirick's figures but the graphic was faster.
Back to the mount problem.
I felt I was close to the solution but I did not know how I should proceed. In theory the idea was sound, it was exactly what I would do if it was a CG model. But this strange angle made every attempt impossible... - or not???
Let's think about what an intersection is. Simply put, two pieces of different shapes meet each other at a certain point. I had the shape of one piece of the equation and the meeting point. All that was missing was the shape of the second piece. But wait - isn't that the basic formula of a mathematic problem? Two variables which are known are combined in a way to reveal the value of a third variable that is unknown?
Then it struck me.
I remembered how the volume of a sphere was calculated and how the formula was proven - by cutting a sphere into a series of small cylinders of different diameters and adding them.
Now how is a tube constructed in the CG world?
It is made of a series of thin rectangles.
That gave me a clue and I swang into action.
I inserted the mockup mounting tube into the left side of the cockpit ball till it met the interior frame. I made sure that it was correctly aligned and tried not to touch it from now on.
Then I cut some left-over card to thin strips and began glueing them to the inside of the tube.
I started at the shortest point, continued with the neighbouring point, and went all the way round. I attached every strip so deep till it met the inner sphere.
This was the result:
The strips followed the shape of the interior frame exactly.
Now I cut open the tube and unrolled it:
This looked like the wavy line I needed. But would it be precise enough? A test mockup tube would show:
I pushed it in -
et voilà: It was straight! And it fit! YAY! :King:
Next I marked the length of the visible tube, traced the wavy line, added some flaps,
cut everything out and assembled the new arm tube. A final test showed: everything fitted!
PHEW - PROBLEM SOLVED!
And yes, I was thinking of Tirick's figures but the graphic was faster.
Back to the mount problem.
I felt I was close to the solution but I did not know how I should proceed. In theory the idea was sound, it was exactly what I would do if it was a CG model. But this strange angle made every attempt impossible... - or not???
Let's think about what an intersection is. Simply put, two pieces of different shapes meet each other at a certain point. I had the shape of one piece of the equation and the meeting point. All that was missing was the shape of the second piece. But wait - isn't that the basic formula of a mathematic problem? Two variables which are known are combined in a way to reveal the value of a third variable that is unknown?
Then it struck me.
I remembered how the volume of a sphere was calculated and how the formula was proven - by cutting a sphere into a series of small cylinders of different diameters and adding them.
Now how is a tube constructed in the CG world?
It is made of a series of thin rectangles.
That gave me a clue and I swang into action.
I inserted the mockup mounting tube into the left side of the cockpit ball till it met the interior frame. I made sure that it was correctly aligned and tried not to touch it from now on.
Then I cut some left-over card to thin strips and began glueing them to the inside of the tube.
I started at the shortest point, continued with the neighbouring point, and went all the way round. I attached every strip so deep till it met the inner sphere.
This was the result:
The strips followed the shape of the interior frame exactly.
Now I cut open the tube and unrolled it:
This looked like the wavy line I needed. But would it be precise enough? A test mockup tube would show:
I pushed it in -
et voilà: It was straight! And it fit! YAY! :King:
Next I marked the length of the visible tube, traced the wavy line, added some flaps,
cut everything out and assembled the new arm tube. A final test showed: everything fitted!
PHEW - PROBLEM SOLVED!
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The red markings show where I glued UHU02's cockpit interior into Shunichi's TIE:
I started with the wide rectangle at the top and proceeded with the two frame pieces at the right and left. Then I added some bigger drops of glue to the parts at the bottom which "bump" into the outer hull from the inside (red ovals). I let the glue cure and then closed the back side of the ball.
A view from the top:
I shortened several flaps so that they wouldn't show through the hatch glass.
The bottom received a piece of corrugated card to prevent it from sagging later. This is easier and faster than UHU's zigzag structure. It just needs to be thick enough to touch the bottom cover once it is in place.
Bottom and top hatch were attached and left to cure.
Dang, doesn't it look good?
I rolled the ball around and was amazed at the added detail - till I noticed THIS:
WHITE SPOTS!!!
WHAT THE --- ! You could see the white ceiling through the big hole in the front. And there was no way to hide it now since everything was glued tightly together. WHAT A BUMMER!!!
I started with the wide rectangle at the top and proceeded with the two frame pieces at the right and left. Then I added some bigger drops of glue to the parts at the bottom which "bump" into the outer hull from the inside (red ovals). I let the glue cure and then closed the back side of the ball.
A view from the top:
I shortened several flaps so that they wouldn't show through the hatch glass.
The bottom received a piece of corrugated card to prevent it from sagging later. This is easier and faster than UHU's zigzag structure. It just needs to be thick enough to touch the bottom cover once it is in place.
Bottom and top hatch were attached and left to cure.
Dang, doesn't it look good?
I rolled the ball around and was amazed at the added detail - till I noticed THIS:
WHITE SPOTS!!!
WHAT THE --- ! You could see the white ceiling through the big hole in the front. And there was no way to hide it now since everything was glued tightly together. WHAT A BUMMER!!!
This was the major error I mentioned earlier. The ball was so strong now that every attempt of re-opening it would lead to its destruction. I would have to start all over again - but that was not possible. I had come so far only to see a half-finished work in front of me.
OK. A few deep breaths later I noticed that there might be one small chance to clean things up a bit. A very small chance but it was there. And I was eager to take it.
The back was still open. I tried something and pushed a thin strip of grey card along the perimeter till it met the first window opening.
Hmm.... Not too shabby. At least some of the white flash was hidden.
I continued with more strips and glued them carefully into the ball.
The front received some larger pieces of scrap card and some areas were treated with the marker.
The white spots were history.
OK. A few deep breaths later I noticed that there might be one small chance to clean things up a bit. A very small chance but it was there. And I was eager to take it.
The back was still open. I tried something and pushed a thin strip of grey card along the perimeter till it met the first window opening.
Hmm.... Not too shabby. At least some of the white flash was hidden.
I continued with more strips and glued them carefully into the ball.
The front received some larger pieces of scrap card and some areas were treated with the marker.
The white spots were history.
You sure that you weren't Spec Ops??? Improvise, Adapt, Overcome. Very nice recovery.
Thank you!
Actually, this mistake proved to be very fortunate: Since I had to work fast because of the deadline I used very long strips and cut them off while glue was curing. In order not to move them during the cutting process I did not cut them off flush but left a few millimeters to stick out. These pieces would later work as flaps to glue the back cover into place. And they were extremely useful and actually needed!
The parts for the back piece:
I added some flaps. The inner ring was a tad too long and had to be shortened.
When I attached the back piece I noticed that there would be a gap between it and the main fuselage. So it is imperative to add some sort of filler to make it look less obvious. This is why the added flaps came in very handy.
I continued with the cockpit window.
The large ring was assembled first.
Then came the front frame.
I already attached the middle pane cut from blister packaging.
When I laminated the grey ring I paid attention to the markings which had to correspond with the window frames. The underlying white circle began to buckle because it was a tad too large. I made one incision and everything smoothed out perfectly.
I flipped the frame and painted the back side with the marker. See, I learn from my mistakes. :Grin:
Then I made a template, cut out the remaining window glass pieces and glued them to the back side of the frame. Everything was left to cure.
Before the frame was glued to the ball I cleaned the "glass" using a soft cloth. Once it is in place you won't be able to remove any stains and finger prints.
SWEEEEET!
Actually, this mistake proved to be very fortunate: Since I had to work fast because of the deadline I used very long strips and cut them off while glue was curing. In order not to move them during the cutting process I did not cut them off flush but left a few millimeters to stick out. These pieces would later work as flaps to glue the back cover into place. And they were extremely useful and actually needed!
The parts for the back piece:
I added some flaps. The inner ring was a tad too long and had to be shortened.
When I attached the back piece I noticed that there would be a gap between it and the main fuselage. So it is imperative to add some sort of filler to make it look less obvious. This is why the added flaps came in very handy.
I continued with the cockpit window.
The large ring was assembled first.
Then came the front frame.
I already attached the middle pane cut from blister packaging.
When I laminated the grey ring I paid attention to the markings which had to correspond with the window frames. The underlying white circle began to buckle because it was a tad too large. I made one incision and everything smoothed out perfectly.
I flipped the frame and painted the back side with the marker. See, I learn from my mistakes. :Grin:
Then I made a template, cut out the remaining window glass pieces and glued them to the back side of the frame. Everything was left to cure.
Before the frame was glued to the ball I cleaned the "glass" using a soft cloth. Once it is in place you won't be able to remove any stains and finger prints.
SWEEEEET!
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And now -
Naw, not really! :Grin:
The newly designed arms were attached.
As I mentioned before, the wings are very heavy. To make sure that everything is kept in place securely I applied glue very generously, first on the flaps, then I let some of it drop inside the arm. I did not cover the inside of the arm but the flaps at the bottom.
Using a rod I poked into the arm and spread the glue inside over the flaps to cover them thoroughly.
The "bracelets" were pushed over the arms. The fit was very good.
They were edge-glued into place.
Additional clamps were added and another set of bracelets was pushed over.
This was left to cure.
Meanwhile I assembled the cannons.
The grey tubes were a tad too small. Some streaks with the marker took care of any visible white flash.
Look, @Rhaven Blaack : GREEBLIES!!!
These went on the back of the ball.
Naw, not really! :Grin:
The newly designed arms were attached.
As I mentioned before, the wings are very heavy. To make sure that everything is kept in place securely I applied glue very generously, first on the flaps, then I let some of it drop inside the arm. I did not cover the inside of the arm but the flaps at the bottom.
Using a rod I poked into the arm and spread the glue inside over the flaps to cover them thoroughly.
The "bracelets" were pushed over the arms. The fit was very good.
They were edge-glued into place.
Additional clamps were added and another set of bracelets was pushed over.
This was left to cure.
Meanwhile I assembled the cannons.
The grey tubes were a tad too small. Some streaks with the marker took care of any visible white flash.
Look, @Rhaven Blaack : GREEBLIES!!!
These went on the back of the ball.
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The wing mounts and additional wing parts are assembled.
Here you can still see the finished top hatch and bottom cover before they were installed (this pic was taken earlier in the build).
The completed wings:
Here I also used a very thick drop of glue.
To speed things up and to avoid any hassle with the wing struts and additions I attached both wings at the same time.
I used an angle ruler to make sure that the wings were standing straight up. I put them on my cutting mat and used the grid for alignment.
This was left to dry for a few hours.
I reinforced the connection by applying some glue around the mount. Any visible spots would later be hidden by the bracelet.
The bracelet was edge-glued into place.
Everything was left to cure.
And the first outdoor pics - for @bigpetr with a hand in picture :Grin: :
No, it's not over yet. The engine is still missing and will be attached tomorrow. CU and thanks for watching!
No, it's not over yet. The engine is still missing and will be attached tomorrow. CU and thanks for watching!
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That looks AMAZING!!!
I can see that there is a great deal of greebling potential in this model!!!
I can see that there is a great deal of greebling potential in this model!!!
@Rhaven Blaack : You can greeble the heck out of this model. It looks great and I'm glad to have chosen this one for my friend.
@micahrogers :
Part 1: http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/sf-papercraft/sf/tie-fighter.html
Part 2: https://www.zealotmodels.com/resources/tie-interceptor.2155/
Part 3: Coming soon..!
@micahrogers :
Part 1: http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/sf-papercraft/sf/tie-fighter.html
Part 2: https://www.zealotmodels.com/resources/tie-interceptor.2155/
Part 3: Coming soon..!
The final parts were attached:
The engines were laminated to some card, edges were painted with the marker.
I used some reflective foil from a chocolate packaging (the square one with the "Knight" in the name ) and punched out two circles which simulate glowing engines. The reflection shows when a light like the camera flash is aimed directly at them:
Engines attached:
Here you can see the gap between the fuselage and the back piece which was covered up by using the grey flaps. Not perfect but barely noticable.
A close-up of the "neck greeblie":
DONE!
The engines were laminated to some card, edges were painted with the marker.
I used some reflective foil from a chocolate packaging (the square one with the "Knight" in the name
) and punched out two circles which simulate glowing engines. The reflection shows when a light like the camera flash is aimed directly at them:Engines attached:
Here you can see the gap between the fuselage and the back piece which was covered up by using the grey flaps. Not perfect but barely noticable.
A close-up of the "neck greeblie":
DONE!
Loved the pics and your hard work. What a great job you did on this model!!! thumbsup
And yes "if it fits, you can build it!!!!"
And yes "if it fits, you can build it!!!!"
You have done a great job on this project! I like that you were able to merge the two models together like you did!
BEAUTY PICS!!!
Unfortunately the weather was pretty bad today, so the pics are not as brilliant as I wanted them to be. Here are the best ones I was able to take. Enjoy!
Unfortunately the weather was pretty bad today, so the pics are not as brilliant as I wanted them to be. Here are the best ones I was able to take. Enjoy!
@bigpetr : The dimensions of this enlarged model are: width 22 cm, length 23.5 cm, heigth 28.5 cm. And it weighs about 0.3 kg.
What's funny about it: The model is one of the easiest to photograph. You can put it on the edges of the wings and take pictures from all angles without worrying about how to achieve a certain pose. These pics on the black canvas were made by simply putting it straight on the ground and walking around it. I did not dare to hold it on one wing though because of the stress that would be caused on the arm. But be careful, the big wings make it prone to strong wind. The model wanted to dance a bit during the shooting.
Changing position is easy, too: Just rock the model back and forth on the edge. If it sits on the long edge like in the pictures it is even more stable than in the standard upright position.
And ready for dispatch:
My colleague was speechless when he received his present. It hit the right spot - as intended. He asked me if there would be more models I could make for future birthdays. I told him, maybe..!
To be continued...
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