HMS Hood - scaled down Halinski 1/250

Hood bandstands

Hi All

Added the aft bandstands on Hood spent more time looking for the bits than building them in the end I just manufactured the bits that were missing. The range finder top is not looking happy think the glue let go.

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@Jim

I think I will just roll some scrap grey paper, although Christoph showed me a quick method using a toothpick and some insulation.

barry
 
Hi, Barry! :D

Well, that rangefinder should be easy to rectify, no?
Lots of little bits, eh? :wink: Ah, but that's what makes this such an interesting model, mate, all that little detail stuff which you are building with great results just adds that much more to the way she will look in the end, which I see as being great.
Real good stuff, mate! :D

More when you can, please.

Cheers!

Jim
 
Hoods boats

Hi

I got fed up cutting bits of wire so I decided to fill Hood's decks up a bit she looked a bit bare and boats are supposed to be easier. They are not brilliant but make up for that in volume there are still 3 more small ones to fit. One boat came out much better than the others because I printed it out on thinner card. I should redo the rest but I don't see it happening somehow.

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barry
 
Hoods boats

Hi

I got fed up cutting bits of wire so I decided to fill Hood's decks up a bit she looked a bit bare and boats are supposed to be easier. They are not brilliant but make up for that in volume there are still 3 more small ones to fit. One boat came out much better than the others because I printed it out on thinner card. I should redo the rest but I don't see it happening somehow.

hood_71.JPG


barry
 
Hi, Barry! :D

Not sure what problem you see there, mate, it all looks great to me!
Not sure what problem you see there, mate, it all looks great to me!

:lol:

Seriously, your boats look very good; the thinner card is easier to form those tighter curves, for sure, and that might just make it easier for you than using the thicker stuff.

Keep at it, mate!

Cheers!

Jim
 
Hood AA guns

Hi All

My thanks to the friend who gave me the hint on cutting gun barrels from wire using an old ball point pen tube, my latest bit of gear is two pieces cut to length and stuck on to a bit of card. Cutting barrels is now a breeze, but what he did not say is that it stops all the shrapnel flying round the room a big relief.

So last night I managed to build 2 8 barrel pompoms and 1 16 barrel uplifter of course I did not get around to painting them and there are still 3 uplifters to build., but the port side is complete.

Also there are a lot of ladders to produce so I guess it's build another jig time

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Slowly coming together at last

barry
 
Hi, Barry! :D

Really looking very good, mate!

I gather the tip on cutting the barrels from wire is that you cut a piece of tubing, like an old ballpoint pen refill cartidge, to the height/length of the barrel you want, glue it to a piece of scrap card so it stand on end and then use the top as a guide for making the cut? I can see how the tube will keep your barrel from flying away! :shock: That has happened to me oh too often, not just when cutting wire but when trying to handle those little wire eyelets I am using for the gun tackle blocks on my Constitution build...of course, once they fly off they're never to be seen or heard of again. :( Nice tip!

Looking forward to more when you can, mate. :wink:

Cheers!

Jim
 
barrel cutter

Hi Jim

Yes mate as you rightly say stuck vertically I'm pretty sure it came from our new Polish friend with broken finger.

barry
 
Thanks, Barry! :D

That would be our good friend "CRS" who is working on the Orp Blyskawica...hope he heals soon so we can see more of his excellent work!

BTW, I believe CRS made his tool/pen refill tube attached to a wire-like handle; either way I imagine this trick works very well.

Looking forward to more photos, mate! :wink: :wink:

Cheers!

Jim
 
Hood bollards stairs etc

Hi All

Just adding whatever bits I come across at the moment including my cheat the fingers just rbel against some rolled cylinders now so the bollards are the stripped off insulation from electrical wire. Ladders take for ever these days but the ones on the bridge and foredeck are complete.

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for once the colours are about right.


barry
 
Barry, I can comiserate about the fingers....rolling the depth charges for the Blue is a real pain, literally. The spring rains are raising havoc with my finger joints....I think there are more ash cans in the carpet that on the model. Build is looking good.
 
Main Mast

Hi All
I must want this one out of the way I think, although the further it goes along the more I like her, pity it's not such a good build. Added the funnel caps and some of the steam pipes and the main mast shear legs which fitted suprisingly well the two big rowing boats fit in JUST.

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If you look hard you can see some of the bridge ladders

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Tight fit !!

barry
 
Hood vents steps

Hi All

Added a few of the ventilators and ladders slow progress. I did not like the wind up roll style of vents so I changed them to DN type, the ladders in the kit wre just flat printouts and looked worse than my scratch built ones.

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Biggest trouble with these ladders is they are a much photographed part of the ship and are part of her trademark.

barry
 
Barry,

Here's a simple question for you and the others. What's the trick to getting a good oval funnel.

After much time, I'm still working on DN's Dreadnought. My funnels have a lot to be desired.

Cheers,
Brad
 
Hi, Barry! :D

Great job on those little details, mate. I have to agree, the scratch built ladders add so much more than the flat parts...sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and do what you think is best. In this case it certainly worked out great.

This kit certainly seems to have a lot of parts...a LOT! I know it's a lot of work, but with each addition it looks better and better. Keep at it, mate!

Brad, not sure what others do, but maybe you can make a little internal former or frame to help form the oval you need, that might make forming the shape a bit easier. I'm thinking at least a rectangular shape to help spread the stack to it's proper fore and aft width, and a oval shaped base that fits the stack shape at the base of the rectangle to help introduce the curves with another at the top of the rectangle (identical to the base former) that should do it. Be sure to paint the top surface black to hide the formers inside the stack before you wrap the stack around the frame. Not sure if this is the solution, but I hope it helps give you some ideas.

More photos when you can, please, Barry. :wink:

Cheers!

Jim
 
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