Dimorphodon, by @Strick67

[micahrogers]

As promised, here is my build of the Dimorphodon by @Strick67

As is usual the process starts by printing the model. This one is formatted for A4 paper, but since I am in the US it has been downsized to 95% of original to fit onto Letter size 8 1/2 by 11 67# stock.

The 3 parts pages printed first.

 

[Strick67]

Watching this with interest.
Incidentally I'm using Vallejo Model Color to paint the 3D printed sculpted model which the card version was based on.

 

[micahrogers]

Watching this with interest.
Incidentally I'm using Vallejo Model Color to paint the 3D printed sculpted model which the card version was based on.

I use both Vallejo, and The Army Painter (TAP) Vallejo for models mostly, and TAP for figures and miniatures. The rack with the smaller (10 ml?) bottles are TAP Dungeons & Dragons Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments.

 

[micahrogers]

Started building of the ptrerosaur, Dimorphodon by Strick67,
Construction starts with the head, which consists of 2 pieces, parts # 1 and 2.

 

[micahrogers]

Update on the Dimorphodon build.
Neck pieces 3 and 4 cut out, preformd,

glued, and attached to the head.

Head is filled with tissue to add support, neck will be stuffed once glue dries.

 

[Strick67]

I use both Vallejo, and The Army Painter (TAP) Vallejo for models mostly, and TAP for figures and miniatures. The rack with the smaller (10 ml?) bottles are TAP Dungeons & Dragons Nolzur's Marvelous Pigments.

I'm not really a model maker but I've had to start painting up my sculpts for product photography. Originally I was using cheap artists acrylic which was fine for the skulls but I decided I needed something with better opacity for the Dimo 3D print. I have to say the Vallejo paints rose to the occasion.

 

[micahrogers]

I'm not really a model maker but I've had to start painting up my sculpts for product photography. Originally I was using cheap artists acrylic which was fine for the skulls but I decided I needed something with better opacity for the Dimo 3D print. I have to say the Vallejo paints rose to the occasion.

If your main concern is opacity, the The Army Painter have a higher pigment count. but you won't find "Generic" colors from TAP. Vallejo Model Color have the traditional painters colors, Umber, sienna, Prussian Blue, and the like. Just Keep in mind that all of the lighter colors, orange, yellow, white, and some blues take multiple coats to show true color, unless your base color is the same color as the paint.

 

[Strick67]

The Vallejo paints were fine for my needs. At a push I could have managed with artists' acrylic but I fancied going 'posh' for a change . In the pre-digital days I used to illustrate using acrylics and sometimes oils so I developed a few techniques for getting opaque and transparent colours to play nice together. Incidentally I gave the 3D print the same colour scheme as the card model.

 

[micahrogers]

I went 'posh' with my $64.95 "Master series" brush set by The Army Painter. 11 brushes, from 1/2 inch wide, all the way down to one called "The Pyscho" which is smaller than a 20/0 detail, and the set includes a real Red Sable Kolinski Master Class detail brush. I'll spend good money on fancy things for my wife, and my hobby

 

[micahrogers]

And back to the build.

Update on the Dimorphodon build.
The next step is the tail, pieces 8 - 12. Pieces scored, cut out and preformed.

Then the individual segments assembled,

then the completed tail boom. As suggested in the instructions, I inserted rolled up paper to reinforce the segment joins. The final segment to the tail "sail" just has a trimmed toothpick.


As a side note, this model could have easily had a 'round' tail instead of 4 sides, just don't pre score and fold the segments, instead just roll them up...

 

[micahrogers]

I forgot to take step by pictures, so I'll do that with the left side.
Here is the right side dorsal surface of the wing.

I've already thought of another change an advanced builder can make, No Tabs, the wing would look much better with but joints.

 

[micahrogers]

Left wing dorsal surface cut out, scored, and preformed.

Left wing dorsal assembled.

Left wing ventral scored, cut out, and preformed,

And assembled

and the same for the right ventral surface.


Next will be the body, then assembly.

 

[Revell-Fan]

That looks really good!

 

[micahrogers]

That looks really good!

Thanks @Revell-Fan Working on it to try and keep my sanity... What little there is left.

 

[micahrogers]

Progressing nicely, had to make a trip into town or this would be a finishing update.
I got the body chest and abdomen, pieces 5 & 6 and the back, piece 7 cut out and preshaped.

Internal cuts glued to form the curved shape.


and the chest glued to the abdomen
.
Head and right wing dorsal attached to the back.

and left dorsal

The tail added, this is the top side of the pterosaur. She is a fairly large paper model.

Ventral wings attached to the chest and abdomen.

and leg membrane attached and tweezers holding it till the glue dries.

 

[micahrogers]

Ventral side complete,

support braces added to inside of ventral section to hold shape.

and set to rest for the proper dihedral

 

[micahrogers]

Trailing edge of the wings glued together, and she'll dry like this overnight.


Tomorrow I'll get her finished.

 

[micahrogers]

All I have managed to do today is to finish getting the main body glued together, a combination of errands that couldn't be put off, and a very painful day, slowed me down.

I will work on the legs and arms later if I can stay awake.

I hate having to take my pain meds so early.

 

[micahrogers]

Rear legs and feet attached.

The instructions aren't real clear on which way the feet go on, but the cover picture shows them toes open up, so that's the way I put them.

Right arm pieces scored, cut, and preformed.

Mock up, to see best way to install.

Right arm installed

Left arm scored, cut and preshaped.

Left arm installed

And finished

 

[micahrogers]

Better pics taken outside in natural light.

And the beauty shot.
I
In summation, I really enjoyed this build, and it will take a place of honor, hanging from the ceiling of my grandsons room.
Again my thanks to Strick67 for designing this model, and making it available for free.