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It's amazing how small you can go when you try... I've just been bending some track... The Kato chassis (B-B trucks) will go down to 2.75" radius quite happily, but jumps off at about 2.6" radius because the trucks won't pivot enough. Presumably the two-axled version would go smaller still...

Welcome to Godzone Steve! Charles

You won't find many 0-4-0's in N-scale, but you can get 4-4-0's. Minimum 'normal' track radius is 9 3/4 inches, and just about everything will work on that except the extremely long stuff. Down to about 7 inches you'll be absolutely fine with most smaller stuff. Below that is possible, but...

NMRA standards page S-7, click here. Diagram at the top, scroll to the bottom for the N-scale sizes. Basically it's 42.1mm over the top of the rail, and 15.1mm either side of the centreline. 1 21/32" and 19/32" respectively if you're still in imperial measures... Charles

4nscale.com

I made a similar but opposite muck-up when I designed my layout on the computer. It brings up a box that shows you how many of each turnout and stuff you need. So off I go, ordered 25 LH, 28 RH, 3 curved each way and one wye, and 68 pieces of flextrack. Lovely lovely off we go. We'll have...

The issue only being that you seem to be thinking of a lot of costs for 'the DCC system' (FX: "Hallelujah" in chorus...). Whereas actually you might find that you spend a whole heap of money on decoders and wire and mucking about and DPDT switches before you get anywhere. Just a thought...

Agreed. You'd have to really want all of that stuff for it to be worth it... it's no real discount at all...

What he said... :thumb:

Which code 55 track are you talking about?

Some people have created a DC system (or modified their existing one) such that one cab is DCC, and the other is DC. This allows you to run either (a) entirely as DC, since you just set the DCC throttle to loco 0, or (b) some on DCC and some on DC, or (c) flick every switch over to the DCC...

Beautiful. Those are N-scale, is that right? My first idea and suggestion is that you package up those turnbuckles and start selling them. I'll have two packs of them please... Charles

Damn you're good Trainclown... One of these days I'm going to post you a big bench layout and ask for your help on my dream layout... certainly before I start doing too much work on it... Charles

Errrm, this might be exactly the problem that you mentioned first in your message, but I'd recommend that you try the Bragdon weathering powders, then you won't need any of the other steps. Far easier and quicker for mostly much better results...

I use Bragdon's stuff -- it's great. No Dullcote needed... Charles

So, Jim, you've had a lot of spare time recently? Love that one -- how did you do the concrete steps? They're very crisp... Charles

Fabulous as usual Jim. More piles needed maybe? i.e. not just around the edges. "Beyound"?? :eek: Can you show us more of the ships hanging around in the first photo?

Do you want the whole thing, or a coffee table suitable for installing your own layout in? If so, look up the local carpentry shop and get them to quote... easiest if you're in the neighbourhood... Charles

Don't make the reversing loop longer than you need it to be. You say you have room for a 'number of trains'. You can't have another train enter the loop before the first one has got out. The 'length' of the train depends upon how you're using it -- if you use lighting or power in the caboose...

While I wouldn't normally suggest it, I can't help thinking that for $82 you can't go far wrong. Obviously you'll want to improve things later -- the set is the bottom of the barrel (what do you expect for that price?), but $82 isn't an unreasonable amount to spend on a single loco. You'll...