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yea, I've heard the same thing.

I'm using the WS foam roadbed, and I'm very pleased with it. I used cork on my HO layout and had no problems with that, either. From what I hear, the AMI roadbed is also very good. After it's laid, you can take it up. It's not always easy, but it CAN be done. Then, after you have it where you...

I think the Model Railroader article was last spring or summer. I just remember that the guy said to cut the peices into wavy patterns, glue them together with white glue, and use a wire brush and an x-acto knife for shaping. And then paint with acrylics. Use the wire brush outside, though, as...

when I was growing up in the early 60s, my Dad set up an HO layout in our basment. Just an oval, about 6' x 2', no roadbed, a few Plastic houses, and no scenery. Later, he put in two turnouts, one on either side at one end, and a passing track, then later, he put some trestles and a bridge at...

I'm in N scale, and, yes Micro-trains are the Kadee of N scale. Atlas, though, also makes "knuckle couplers" for N scale that are called ACCUMATE. ("knuckle couplers" are couplers that look like real ones). Don't go with RIVVAROSI couplers, though. (they're the N scale equivelant of HO scale...

be sure and use AC for powering turnouts, lights, etc. You're ok though, with a toy train transformer.

the best ones are from Atlas, the recent offerings from Life-Like and Bachmann. Athearn is also good, as is Peco & Kato. (Kato & Atlas are a little pricey, though)

CONGRATS!! Val! Even though I don't know you, let me just say that that is a GREAT kitbash!! BTW, did that start out as a MODEL POWER building? It looks like it.

be cautios when using brake fluid or any of these other things, though, as all plastics react differently. I've heard that the paint on KATO shells is ecspecialy(sp?) tough. However, I've heard of people getting exellent results on all plastics, even KATO, with CHAMELEON paint remover.

I'm trigggering mine with ATLAS twin-coil switch controlers, and to test them I hook them to the AC terminals on my power pack. I plan to get an AC toy train transformer from Lionel, though, to hook them and the lights to.

you're right, we have come a long way since then. I came into the hobby in the 80s, so I don't remember those days, but I've heard about having to use dyed sawdust, etc.

I heard,years ago, that Linn Wesscott (for those of you who never heard of him, he was a model railroader in the 50s,60s, & 70s) used to use tea to color his scenery in some spots.

I AM able to remove the turnout, thankfully:D as I was just testing it when I found this out, and the only other peice of track that is down is another turnout, (which is also PECO and it's working fine). So, I think I'll just buy another machine, cut the remaining wires off this one, and...

on one of my PECO switch machines, one of the terminal lugs broke off, with the wire still soldered on it. The other wires are OK, but the machine is still on the turnout. Any suggestions?:confused: :confused: :mad: :mad:

:confused: :confused: can ssomeone tell me how to insulate two wires that are soldered together, in a "T"? In other words, where a length of insulation is taken off one wire in the middle, and a bare end of another wire is wrapped around it and soldered in place, so it's shaped like a "T"? Would...

another method of joining 2 sizes, or Codes, of rail, is to put a rail joiner on the bigger rail-in other words, if you're joining Code 80 to Code 55 (in N scale) or Code 100 to Code 70 (in HO scale) the Code 80 is the bigger one in N, and 100 is the bigger one in HO. Then, flatten the end...

remember though, before painting track that's already been laid, make sure it's perfect, ellectrically.

great!! Because the pack in question IS an MRC TECH II (I think a 2400). Thanks guys!!:D :D

would anHO power pack also work in :) :) :)N scale ?

what kind of digital camera would I need in order to take pictures of my layout, and send them over the internet?:confused: :confused: