Does anyone have an idea about where one might aquire one of these kits, or a set of drawings to copy the parts. This is one of those kits that you really would like to build but alas, no longer around. These really can be built to a high standard w/addtional attention, ie: frame requires addtional formers to help stiffen. Please do not tell me evil bay is the only answer!wall1
HG Watkins USS Tennessee
- Thread starter papastumpy
- Start date
I figure this is as good a place as any to start a new build thread. I am able to do this build thanks to eibwarrior who so kindly provided me the download used to build this battle wagon, USS Tennessee, I am not sure of exact scale but looks to be 1:400 but might be a little larger. Rescaled the download from 300x300 to 4800x4800. This gave a good size that was big enough for detail work and not the frustration 
of building in 1:700. Everything is printed up and am adding more formers for frame since kit comes w/basic frame. We are talking about a kit produced 1977. Will post pic's soon.
of building in 1:700. Everything is printed up and am adding more formers for frame since kit comes w/basic frame. We are talking about a kit produced 1977. Will post pic's soon.Glad I could help you out Papastumpy...
Yeah, you'll have to add more formers to the basic Watkins design for this model. I used balsa wood struts cut to suit during the hull construction were most helpful.
Again, I can't stress enough, measure twice and cut once when it comes to putting the decks on the formers/hull sides. This was a major design issue with this model. As I recall the deck is narrower than the hull formers. at the torpedo buldges.
I look forward to your next posts!
Yeah, you'll have to add more formers to the basic Watkins design for this model. I used balsa wood struts cut to suit during the hull construction were most helpful.
Again, I can't stress enough, measure twice and cut once when it comes to putting the decks on the formers/hull sides. This was a major design issue with this model. As I recall the deck is narrower than the hull formers. at the torpedo buldges.
I look forward to your next posts!
I have re-sized and laid out, ready to start cutting. The only thing I am not really happy with is the color my printer laid down, it is darker than the color version you sent. I played all day trying to correct, but what the heck, gray is gray. I am really looking forward to this build, I will be able to see what I am doing w/o a set of glasses, magnified head band and magnification lamp
. I have you to thank for this kit:thumb: and I will put forth my best effort. Have learned some good techniques and am looking forward to trying them out on this classic kit.Darwin, I believe you are right, I played today, most of it trying to re-size and I believe I now have her at 1:250. After the last project. 1:700, I will feel like I am working on Godzilla. I am looking forward to this build. Will post photo's soon.tooth1
I am ready to start the frame work for the Watkins USS Tennessee. I am laminating the bottom to 1/16 balsa and will use for the rest of the interior frame work which will be modified a bit to correct some issues. I have already been provided w/a tip to adjust so deck will match to hull w/o gaps at certain locations. I am really looking forward to this build.
My 1st mate.
My 1st mate.Sorry for not posting any further about this build. I had a set back. Part of this hobby is like any other form of modeling, you learn as you go. Found out that a gob of white glue and balsa is a formula for a twisted mess. So that is out for a basic hull build. My friend that provided the kit was kind enough to provide a 1:300 scale re-do with the colors a rich dark gray and not the washed out color my printer kept printing out. So as the show must go on, I will start again with the frame work. This time however I will mount to 2mm card stock w/ 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. Did learn a new trick from the fella that provided the kit, seal the kit w/Clear Acrylic Sealer Matte. This protects and preserves the color from fading over time. Weekend is coming, so I hope to post this new frame then. Did a little research and found out that the USS Tennessee was a part of the Surigao Strait: the last battleship fight, INJ Fuso and INJ Yamashiro led Admiral Nashimura's squadron into the Surigao Strait, which was guarded by TF77.2: six battleships assigned to provide gunfire support for the landings. The Squadron was commanded by Rear-Admiral Jesse B Oldendorf, flying his flag from the USS Mississippi; all battleships there that day were survivors of Pearl Harbor. The INJ Battleships fought their way up the strait, driving off US PT-boats. This shows the valor of the sailors of these ships knowing they were fighting on in a battle they could not win. A destroyer attack hit the INJ Fuso twice after 3 am and she lost speed. She sank 90 min.s later. Although hit by torpedoes Yamashiro pressed the battle. At 03:51, USS Tennessee and USS West Virgina opened fire with their big guns, followed by the USS Mississippi and Maryland. Within min.s INJ Yamashiro was dead in the water, yet she continued to return fire. Blazing from stern to stern, she sank 30 min.s later. There were no survivors. Let us remember the valor and sacrifice of all men who engage in any battle.:yep:
Hey Rick, you may want to check out Navsource.org for further pictures of the Tennessee. I found the re-fit photos in that site very useful while building this glorious lady.
Good stuff on the Tennessee history. I knew most of that, but you added a few tidbits that I didn't know... Thanks!
Good stuff on the Tennessee history. I knew most of that, but you added a few tidbits that I didn't know... Thanks!
Thanks for the tip on the info for the re-fit details. I do have another question. I know you said you had sprayed the print-outs twice and you recommended I do it two more times. Does this mean you apply at least four times to complete the process w/Matt spray, and I will assume that the coats are light, or how do you measure the amount of spray you apply. As always you are a great help for this ole horse.
No, not necessarily. Light coats are best. I just sprayed it hastily the other night as it was about 15 degrees F and my garage door was open for ventillation. :mrgreen:
Not only was I freezing my backside off, I was attempting to keep fumes from building up in the garage where my gas furnace is located with it's ever-burning pilot light.
Read the precautions on the can and you'll see where I'm going with this...
Anyway, it wouldn't hurt to put a couple more thin coats on them...
Not only was I freezing my backside off, I was attempting to keep fumes from building up in the garage where my gas furnace is located with it's ever-burning pilot light.
Read the precautions on the can and you'll see where I'm going with this...
Anyway, it wouldn't hurt to put a couple more thin coats on them...
I will follow your instructions. Mommy use to say keep you backside covered!No, not necessarily. Light coats are best. I just sprayed it hastily the other night as it was about 15 degrees F and my garage door was open for ventillation. :mrgreen:
Not only was I freezing my backside off, I was attempting to keep fumes from building up in the garage where my gas furnace is located with it's ever-burning pilot light.
Read the precautions on the can and you'll see where I'm going with this...
Anyway, it wouldn't hurt to put a couple more thin coats on them...
